Are you using a inkjet printer or a laser printer? The inkjet printings do not transfer as the laser ones do because the inkjet is ink and the laser printers are based on toner. More than likely, I'd suspect you are using an inkjet printer and that's why it's not working.

So, what you do is this (If you don't have a laser printer. [I myself have an old LaserJet III with a 90 dollar toner cartridge and all!]):

Print the image using the inkjet and then trace over it with a dark #2 pencil, then transfer by using a coin or something like that. That will cause the graphite of the pencil lead to transfer off the image and onto the carving medium.

Ravenhaus
----- Original Message -----
From: deeutz68
To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 11:26 AM
Subject: [LbNA] Help with carving

My daughter wants to carve a stamp and we printed one off the
computer and are using nail polish remover to transfer the design to
the eraser. The problem is its not working. Is there special kind of
paper that needs to be used?

Also the only Staedtler erasers I could find were at Walmart. They
are the small erasers. What other types of materials does everyone
use? Where do you buy them? I have several stamps in mind to do, but
I need a bigger canvas. I also don't want to spend a small fortune
on the blocks if you know what I mean.

Dee Ladybug


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "Kerjin" wrote:
>
> Are you using a inkjet printer or a laser printer? The inkjet
>printings do not transfer as the laser ones do because the inkjet is
>ink and the laser printers are based on toner.
---
Well, that explains why I can't get the image to transfer, after
gassing myself all night with acetone. Well, not really, I am careful
*grin* I want to keep as many brain cells as possible.) I just gently
rub the back of the tracing with my finger while holding it secure and
this is enough to transfer the image. Then I ink over the image that
is now on the carving material with a black ink pen like a fine point
uni-ball which is waterproof & fadeproof. Now the image stays put as
I carve the stamp. When I cut, I use a speedball #1 blade without
putting it in the holder, this gives me complete control. I'm very
nearsighted so I can see closeup w/o my glasses, some people get the
same results with a magnifyer. First I carve the hard part. Then carve
around all the design, after that I take out the big empty spaces with
either a speedball #5 "U" shaped blade or a speedball #2 "V"shaped
blade. The edges are the last to go & are done just before mounting on
acrylic. During the process I check how the stamp looks with a stamp
pad that has ink that washes off. My first stamps were on erasers,
I've heard the mars stadtler is good, I don't remember what I used but
I do remember I went thru several because of mistakes - do expect it.
You can buy the speedball blades at crafts stores like Michaels for
about $3-4 a pkg of 2-3 but look carefully at the condition of the
blades inside: some might be rusting or bent or mis-shaped ("they"
just don't make them the way they use to I guess). I always sharpen
my speedball blades before each carving but I'm fussy and it's
probably not needed for a first time carver. Michaels also sells
small sketch books for about $4.00 and Wal-mart has Rubbermaid
containers for $2-3.00.
Have fun!
catbead

One more thing, I like the dye based ink pads Michaels sells for $2.00
here in Syracuse. Shake the pad first though, if it rattles then the
pad has come loose & in my experience it's almost dry.
catbead.

your wal-mart has small pads! I'm ticked. I've checked all over the store
and it only has 8x10. I have to pay full price at crafts stores for small
pads that I can use! Oh well.

On carving-Pencil tracing works well. If you want another option, make a
xerox of the image. While it doesn't work as well (in my experience, but it
could just be my copy machine) as laser copies, it does still work. You can
also iron on a low heat, not just acetone. I've had mixed results with
both. I prefer tracing if it isn't intricate, but I don't like it as much
if there are too many details. Be careful with your heat on iron
transfers-don't touch the material directly. I've found that some materials
melt easier than others when the heat is to high.

Carving media can be many-from cheap pink erasers to Staedler-Mars Grand,
which I can't get in stores here and have to charge. My happy medium has
been PZ Cut from a stamper's web page that's address is slipping my mind at
the moment, but many here can tell you. The bigger craft stores also sell
"The Pink Stuff" not really called that, it's by Speedball. Don't even try
the white stuff from speedball (both come it sheets). It is a bunch of
crumbly junk (I'm editing here for other's sakes).

From: "ehughes52"
Reply-To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:12:08 -0000
To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [LbNA] Re: Help with carving


--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "Kerjin" wrote:
>
> Are you using a inkjet printer or a laser printer? The inkjet
>printings do not transfer as the laser ones do because the inkjet is
>ink and the laser printers are based on toner.
---
Well, that explains why I can't get the image to transfer, after
gassing myself all night with acetone. Well, not really, I am careful
*grin* I want to keep as many brain cells as possible.) I just gently
rub the back of the tracing with my finger while holding it secure and
this is enough to transfer the image. Then I ink over the image that
is now on the carving material with a black ink pen like a fine point
uni-ball which is waterproof & fadeproof. Now the image stays put as
I carve the stamp. When I cut, I use a speedball #1 blade without
putting it in the holder, this gives me complete control. I'm very
nearsighted so I can see closeup w/o my glasses, some people get the
same results with a magnifyer. First I carve the hard part. Then carve
around all the design, after that I take out the big empty spaces with
either a speedball #5 "U" shaped blade or a speedball #2 "V"shaped
blade. The edges are the last to go & are done just before mounting on
acrylic. During the process I check how the stamp looks with a stamp
pad that has ink that washes off. My first stamps were on erasers,
I've heard the mars stadtler is good, I don't remember what I used but
I do remember I went thru several because of mistakes - do expect it.
You can buy the speedball blades at crafts stores like Michaels for
about $3-4 a pkg of 2-3 but look carefully at the condition of the
blades inside: some might be rusting or bent or mis-shaped ("they"
just don't make them the way they use to I guess). I always sharpen
my speedball blades before each carving but I'm fussy and it's
probably not needed for a first time carver. Michaels also sells
small sketch books for about $4.00 and Wal-mart has Rubbermaid
containers for $2-3.00.
Have fun!
catbead



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>My happy medium has been PZ Cut from a stamper's web page that's
>address is slipping my mind at the moment

it's: http://www.stampeaz.com/ but they're on vacation right now.
Daniel Smith: www.danielsmith.net has Safety-Kut which is what I have
right now.
--
>I have to pay full price at crafts stores for small pads that I can >use!

How about paying $1.79 for the Strathmore 300 series 3.5" x 5" sketch
pad? Art City has them at:
http://store.yahoo.com/artcity-com/stp-350xx.html
Much better than the price at Michael's!! Buy 'em by the dozen.

catbead